First, a word to the wise:

"Hire a chef," jokes Basilio Pesce, of Biff's Bistro and Wine Bar (across the street from Toronto's Sony Centre for the Performing Arts). While it might sound like a diss for the intrepid self-starter, it's for professionals like himself that his heart truly goes out to: "The worst part about being a chef is that everyone expects you to cook." Everyone, in this case, being his wife and two kids, plus his parents, sisters and in-laws – a formidable collection of discerning palates, indeed. However, if you've invited a tonne of friends and family and catering is out of the question, don't feel the need to roast a turkey, or do anything holiday-clichéd, if that's not your bag. According to Jeremie Bastien, the man behind the scenes at Vancouver's Boneta, there are no rules when it comes to what to serve. "I think Christmas is a celebration of family and friends and you should make yourself happy by eating whatever it is you want," he says. "If you and your loved ones want sushi, eat sushi."

THE MAIN EVENT

Pesce, who has spent years in many of Toronto's top kitchens (before Biff's he was sous-chef at Canoe, another Oliver & Bonacini boîte), takes a professional approach to prepping for the occasion. He starts conceiving his menu at least a week in advance, granting himself four days to begin physically preparing it. "This gives me enough time to brine or cure, depending on what I'm making, with a day or two of leeway. It also lets me source a big piece of meat or turkey." He often goes with something that's tried-and-true for him and his family: For Christmas Eve, he will serve a lot of seafood protein: oysters, a whole roasted fish, octopus; and on Christmas Day, he'll make a lasagna.

Bastien often throws a party for some 20 friends who are away from their families during the holidays. ("Entrance fee is a bottle of champagne," he says.) Already anticipating his feast, he suggests a meal that's elegant, but much simpler to cook: oven-roasted prime rib accompanied by béarnaise sauce and scallop potatoes with a choice of roasted root vegetables. "Traditional and easily prepared, but very impressive and delicious," he says.

The take-away: While factoring in such a huge chunk of time beforehand might sound over-the-top, choosing a recipe, reading it over, gathering ingredients and doing any preliminary prepwork (like ordering an organic Turkey or making a pie crust) ensures you've got everything you need when you're ready to press preheat. Also, try a meal you're confident you can pull off given enough time, and one that you and all your guests can enjoy. Hint: stay away from a huge charcuterie platter if some of your guests are vegetarian. You don't want to have to make two holiday dinners for one sitting.

KEEP THE COCKTAILS AND HORS D'OEUVRES COMING

While the main event should be your prime focus, both chefs agree that having something to nosh pre-dinner takes the edge off. On Christmas Eve, Bastien plans to serve a decadent app: foie gras terrine with homemade brioche; and for the Day, oysters – plentiful in British Columbia – with a red wine vinegar mignonette. He'll pair a nice champagne with the oysters and a bourbon Manhattan or sauternes for the terrine.

For those not comfortable with foie gras or baking their own brioche, Pesce offers a simple alternative: "Salami is great, and anything with cheese and olives, because it can sit out for a while and you can pick at it," he says. "We're big wine people, but it's also nice to do a seasonal cocktail. And do it in larger batches so you're not making the same drink over and over."

The take-away: Appetizers can be as fancy or as down-to-earth as you wish – from shrimp cocktails to bruschetta – but the key is to have something for your guests to nibble on while they sip that festive cocktail. On that note: a festive martini or prosecco are also crowd-pleasers.

SATISFY THE SWEET TOOTH

So you're plating the herbed salmon or you're administering the ribs. What about dessert? The pros often have someone else do it. Says Bastien, "My girlfriend is a pastry chef here in Vancouver – this is her department. I cook the meat."

If you're not so lucky in the pastry-chef-partner department, just think ahead. Here, too, Pesce stresses preparation, so you're not furiously whisking the eggs for a flourless chocolate cake when your guests are pouring through the door: "Dessert can also be made before everyone shows up – so it's ready and all you're doing is adding the finishing touches. It's important to do as much as you can before your guests show up so you can enjoy the company rather than have them watch you running around like a mad person."

The take-away: You don't want to worry about dessert – and you shouldn't have to. Make it ahead, or make it really simple. Besides, by this point in the evening your guests will be such huge fans of yours, they'll be impressed if you whip up some berries and cream.

THE ULTIMATE TAKE-AWAY: DON'T BITE OFF MORE THAN YOU CAN CHEW

"Experience tells me that when I'm having guests over I always want to enjoy myself, too. By the time people show up, if I don't want to eat and can hardly stay awake, it's not worth it," says Pesce. Adding an ample time-buffer gives you room to manoeuvre around any last-minute disasters, and an opportunity to clean up the kitchen – and yourself. "Food is important, but so is being good company for your guests," says Pesce. Bastien concurs. "Don't attempt things that are too difficult. The holidays are a time for relaxing, not being stressed with recipes." And one final hint: "Always cook too much."